thesprezzaturist

~ "studied carelessness"

thesprezzaturist

Tag Archives: Wine

“A thing of beauty is a joy forever”

22 Sunday Sep 2013

Posted by juleslewis in Art, Wine

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Art History, Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon, Manet, Titian, Venus of Urbino, Visual arts, Wine

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Its loveliness increases…..” I know that Keats wasn’t talking about wine, or indeed art, in Endymion – but he could have been, couldn’t he? The wine trade is fond of its suggested parallels with art, books such as: “The Art of wine”, “The Art and Science of Wine”, “The Winemaker’s Art”, all imply that an appreciation and understanding of both, are indicative of good taste. Add their respective histories together with the prefix “Fine” and who could argue? Is wine art, or artisanal – lets give it a little test.

“I know what I like and I like what I see”

This is art appreciation at its most basic. The enjoyment of looking at something, just for what it is, allows art to be easily assimilated into popular culture. Apply this to wine and we may say that many wine labels are aesthetically pleasing and that a great deal of wine is bought on the sight of the label alone.

wine labelTherefore it can be stated that both Titian’s “Venus of Urbino” and Some Young Punks “Passion has Red Lips” fit the statement. I am not dissing either when I say this.

Art has, at its most minimal, a four step programme, obviously there is a great deal more to art criticism than this, but we need speed and flow. Description: Stick to the facts, who made it, what is the subject, when was it made. Now we can enjoy it without context, to contextualize it more we need to ask how it was made. Analysis: We are still collecting facts, but now we must pay attention to the core elements such as line, shape, form, colour, texture, proportion, balance, rhythm, pattern, recognition. It is easy to apply this analysis to wine so I wont patronise you by pointing out which analytical elements could apply – see earlier post BLIC. Interpretation: What is happening, what is the artist trying to say? Be creative, don’t be afraid, this is the fun part. Judgement: Give an opinion, does the work, or wine, succeed or fail? Honesty is essential here, how to you feel about it and are you finished.

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“Our principal aim is to start a process of questioning”    John Berger

This is an oil painting, probably 19th century (you can tell by the uniforms) entitled ” Execution of the Emperor Maximilian”. The painting is in three distinct sections reading from left to right, three figures on the left, a group making up the central section and a figure on the right for compositional balance. Two of the figures on the left have dark skin, white shirts and no hats, the central figure has pale skin and is wearing a sombrero – we can safely assert – with reference to the painting’s title that this is Max.  The firing squad, making up the central third, have their backs to us – in homage to Goya’s “Third of May” – thereby ensuring their anonymity and absolving them from blame – they are the blunt instrument. The figure on the right is facing us and calmly loading his gun.

A little more info on the piece: Maximilian was a figurehead, in name only, of the Second Mexican Empire, and appointed by the Emperor of France Napoleon III. He was executed, along with two of his generals, when the French troops pulled out in 1866/7 – Manet painted it in 1868/9, after the fact. The controversial element is that not only was the execution seen as unjust, but could have been construed as murder. The figure on the right of the painting is a direct likeness of Napoleon III, inferring that it was he (by loading the gun) who sanctioned the death of Maximilian. We the viewers are culpable because we bear witness to this atrocity but do nothing.

Is it aesthetically pleasing? Probably not. Is it successful? Most certainly.

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This is a red Bordeaux, Ch Patache d’Aux, 2005. The label shows a disproportionately large black carriage or stagecoach (patache), drawn by three small white horses – in ancient Egyptian profile – stylised to imply six. The bottle is large, a double magnum, with two glasses – possibly Austrian (like Maximilian) – all are situated on a silver plated salver with a small corkscrew to the left. In the background there is a reproduction of a 16th century artwork, of Germanic origin, and a lamp with a base of Asian provenance. The wine in the bottle had a deep purple core showing minimal browning towards the rim. Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, at around 70%, the wine showed pronounced cassis fruit with some lighter hints of strawberry and cherry, wrapped in a light pullover – not cloak – of velvety oak (only 25 -35% of the barrels are new). It was judged an extremely attractive wine, ready to drink – if accompanied by food – with ripe and very accessible tannins. Well balanced and delicious – good rather than great – it is now sadly gone, only the bottle remains.

Aesthetically pleasing? Of course, its a great package. Successful? As a cru bourgeois definitely.

Where am I going with this? Much as I love art and wine I do not consider them synonymous. Some attributes may be considered similar, but art can reflect and bear witness to events, whereas wine may only accompany such events and serve as an aide memoire. Whilst I have talked of beauty, I have failed to mention further aesthetic criteria such as: truth, genius, civilisation, form, status and taste. Status and taste may certainly be applied to wine – the former is a prerequisite in wine snobbery, the latter is learned and remembered. This leaves connoisseurship, the specialist knowledge or training related to an understanding of taste, the word comes from the French word conoistre meaning “know”. When studying anything beyond a basic level, a specialist vocabulary and a deep knowledge are essential. These should never be used as a means to exclude others, after all, they may like what they see on the surface.

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“The Turn of the Screw”

12 Thursday Sep 2013

Posted by juleslewis in Wine

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Tags

Corkscrew, Wine, Wine Club

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Fiendishly clever isn’t it? A corkscrew that resembles a robot rabbit, comes in its own hutch, with additional accessories, and is yours free when you buy two cases of unspecified plonk. My father fell for this little introductory incentive, and was so thrilled with his new toy that he almost forgot how dreadful the wines were which accompanied it.

He gleefully demonstrated it at every opportunity, residents of the village – with nothing better to do – sat transfixed as he displayed his adroitness with first the foil cutter, then the bottle stand (my mother had to step in here), and finally, gripping the rabbit’s ears with one arthritic hand and the lever with the other, he executed the coup de grace – expelling the cork in one swift, brutal, and remarkably silent flourish.

Confronting his meagre audience, with a triumphant expression on his perspiring face, he breathlessly announced “Who wants a try” to which four adult males immediately responded. I don’t know if all four subscribed to the wine club’s offer – I suspect that they did – what I do know is that the robot rabbit lasted a week.

Rummaging through a kitchen drawer on a recent visit home – in a fruitless search for barbecue skewers – I came upon the remains of the rabbit’s shrine. The foil cutter lay neglected, its little wheels corroded and useless. The stainless steel stopper with double rubber rings lay nearby, next to a random selection of tarnished silver fish knives. The rabbit’s final resting place remains a mystery? My father has a new corkscrew now, a good old-fashioned waiter’s friend.

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Winesday Week (she loves me)

11 Wednesday Sep 2013

Posted by juleslewis in Wine

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

Alentejano, Aragonez, Portugal, Touriga Nacional, Wine

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Wednesday is midweek, an ideal time for my wine of the week – Tinto da Anfora 2009 from Southern Portugal (Waitrose £9.40). I spend a lot of time in the Alentejano , it has some of the worlds loveliest surf breaks, outstanding sardines and anchovies and some fabulous red (and white) wines.

This is a deep coloured red, with a purple core and signs of ageing at the rim. The nose is primarily of damsons and blackcurrants, with underlying notes of spice, cloves, marzipan and just a twist of black pepper. The entry is open, warm and welcoming – like the locals – with a lush, mid-palate enlivened with some classy, vanilla oak. It finishes bone dry, without the merest whisper of residual sugar (most commercial wines are full of it – often up to 9 gpl) and handles its 14% alc with aplomb.

A blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional and a splash of Cab Sauv (5%), the wine spends 12 months in oak barrels – not new – and is under the pre 2010 product label.

The temperature has plummeted here in the UK, and the cosy warmth of this wine is helping with my acclimatization.

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Wineclubbing

11 Wednesday Sep 2013

Posted by juleslewis in Wine

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Christmas, Shopping, Wine, Wine Club

Me and my girl wineclubbing, nightclubbing, sealclubbing – come on sing a long!

A cornucopia of wine club literature is currently cascading, uninvited, through the door. Probably because I fall into a particular marketing bracket and appear on, bought in, lists as an alphabetical statistic. Plus, rather ruthlessly, there are only 104 shopping days till Christmas!

“How do you know this” – You may ask. Well, I used to write wine club copy in a former life. I tried to do it with a sense of humour – see below, but found that I could not marry the product of glorified gardening, made by passionate artisans, with a free clock radio.

“….In the cool of the morning, when the dew is still heavy on the earth, and the morning sun is vying for dominance with a large limpid moon, a hardy, yet merry, band of pickers descend on the vineyards to pluck the firm, plump fruits of the vine. These jovial vendangeurs are the eldest sons of generations of handlers of the golden secateurs, who lovingly and carefully tease the ripe berries into their panniers. Once picked, the berries are crushed beneath the delicate feet of former dancers of the Corps de Ballet…..” Alright, you’ve rumbled us! This is straightforward honest to goodness plonk for early drinking, at a not to be missed price.

Still with me?

Now I have nothing against wine clubs per se, but I do take umbrage at misleading and often bogus incentives. These are rife in the UK, and may exist for up to two weeks without legislation. You know the type of thing “Was £9.99, now only £3.99” Like **** it was! Where and when, you may ask, was it ever £9.99? It is £3.99 and tastes accordingly.

My other favourite is “Was £100 for 12 bottles now only £50”. “Save over £50 a case and get a free corkscrew” (bbq, wine glasses, clock radio). Now I know that most people are suckers for a free corkscrew, but come on – where do these wines come from and who makes them? Surprisingly, some do have known provenance and can be traced back to source, although others have rather dubious parentage.

Another ploy is to use a strapline from a famous wine writer, wine maker or vintage report, stating something along the lines of ” 2011 was a great vintage in the Rhone , the wines were sweet and ripe with excellent fruit and longevity”. This may not apply to the wine in your hands, but you are not going to send it back are you?

Despite the guaranteed refund – if it fails to satisfy, you are reluctant to pay the postage and you have already broken the free corkscrew.   And, more importantly you know a bargain when you see one – don’t you?

infografic courtesy of http://www.corksout.com/whats-in-your-bottle

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11 o clock tick tock

09 Monday Sep 2013

Posted by juleslewis in Wine

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

Aroma of wine, German Riesling, Mosel, Riesling, Sweetness of wine, Wine

 

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If there was ever a wine made for elevenses it’s Riesling. I don’t mean any old Riesling, I mean German Riesling.

If I am talking to wine folk, I apologise for preaching to the converted. If not, and you are new to such a wine, sort yourselves out! This is not the wine of doubtful quality doled out to old ladies at parties, but one of the finest expressions of the grape in the vinous pantheon. It could, without being humbly stated, lay substantial claim to being the world’s greatest white wine.

A combination of incredibly pure, primary fruit aromas (floral, honeyed and racily steely in its youth – morphing to secondary aromas of petrol and plasticine as it ages) married with a richness and complexity extraordinary in a wine of such low alcohol – between 7 and 10% abv – this is a wine of exceptional longevity.

High in extract, it’s residual sugars balanced with naturally high levels of tartaric acid, the examples of the cooler climate Mosel, Saar and Ruwer are perfect wines. If you are slightly afeared of residual sugar then seek out the drier trocken styles.

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Epinophy

09 Monday Sep 2013

Posted by juleslewis in Wine

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Pinot Noir, Wine

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When you first meet someone and fall hopelessly and helplessly in love, you are in the throes of a form of mental illness. A potent cocktail of chemicals and neuro-transmitters called ‘monoamines’ dominate your every action during this initial, attraction stage.

The object of your desire seems to hang on your every word, greeting each banal utterance with doe-eyed rapture and a puzzling atrophy of the neck muscles. They clutch you physically – generally by the arm – as if they are already going to lose you. They laugh loudly, and somewhat maniacally, at your hackneyed jokes and phrases – mainly because they have not heard them before, although you have secretly polished them up for millennia.  Worst of all, your new love accompanies you everywhere. Activities, pastimes, hobbies and destinations are no longer your own and the loved one shows a zealots passion for the most absurd elements of your previously, private life.

Thankfully such madness abates during the second, or attachment, stage. The absurd behaviour stops and the loved one realises that you are not so funny, charming, handsome and popular and so takes off the wetsuit and the cricket pads.

It did not take the V.O.R. (my wife, the Voice of Reason) very long to tire of wine speak. Each swirl, sip and florid comment was met with a rolling of the eyes, an audible sigh of boredom and, in extremis, a sharp exit.

Until the Epiphany occurred, and it came with a great big glass of Pinot Noir. This was no ordinary Pinot, however, but a bottle of Domaine Dujac, Clos De La Roche,1990.

Now I make no bones about Pinot being female friendly, soft, lush, sensuous and elegant with a firm tannic streak, a smattering of earthy minerality and a nervy acidic backbone – a skittish thoroughbred amongst wines. The VOR took to it like a duck to water, enthusing about the nose, how the wine evolved in the glass, fruit intensity, tannins and finish were all commented upon (my pupils were dilating and what was happening to my neck), before she finally said “After all that banging on about wine, I suddenly know what you mean”.

The attraction stage had returned, she understood me again, and once more we spoke with one voice – only now I need a bigger wallet!

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Skadoosh!

03 Tuesday Sep 2013

Posted by juleslewis in Wine

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Tags

Chenin Blanc, Rosso di Montalcino, Waiheke Island, Wine

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I have been shopping, those with eagle eye vision will observe the Harvey Nichols bag in the background. Now, Harvey Nicks is not just a shop for fashionistas, D to Z list celebs, footballers their wives and wanabees  – it has a serious wine department. Offering up not only the best Vermouth on the market Carpano’s  Antico Formula, but some other gems to boot. I had a serious “flow” moment  there (“Lost in the supermarket” The Clash, London Calling, 1979) and lost an hour of my day. Admittedly its a better line up than the “Usual Suspects” but which one is my Kaiser Soze? I believe the Turkish definition of “Soze” is to talk too much – so I shall keep it brief!

Adi Badenhorst’s wines are wicked! Biodynamic, organic, resolutely traditional, out there and uncompromising – you gotta love em!  This is from his second tier range,  “Secateurs Chenin Blanc” – I am ever an advocate (there is no connection) – and it delivers. Classic dumb-ish, wet wooley, secondary fermentation nose, a big splash of melon and citrus fruit on the follow through, balanced with seriously zippy, acidic zing! Check out his full range – you will not be disappointed.

The Domaine Drouhin Oregon Chardie (Willamette Valley) is Burgundian in character, a touch Chablisien, with bright, slightly tart, melony fruit, a lush creamy malolacticness (these malapropic descriptors are entirely my own) topped off with a judicious splash of classy French oak.

Pittacum is a red from Bierzo – a remote region in Galicia S.W.Spain. Considered by many to be the next big thing in Spanish winemaking, this is fashioned from the Mencia grape. Rarely grown anywhere else, Mencia delivers wines of great complexity, but at a relatively low alcohol level – have I mentioned this before? Organic, hand-harvested and the product of 75 year-old vines, it has a short maturation of around 4 months in American oak. Fleshy, well rounded with scents of blackcurrants and liquorice it is warmly concentrated with a slightly sweetish finish.

You should all know Paul Draper’s wines – if not, get a grip! This is Geyserville, a rustic, immensely characterful Zin – right up there with only the best examples. Damsons, plums, chocolate, lashings of creamy vanilla oakiness with huge concentration and an immense finish.

Man O War Syrah, from New Zealand’s Waiheke Island comes in at a whopping 14% abv, Despite such robustness, it remains extremely fresh, although meaty, with some white pepper and clove notes on the nose. It opens up and softens after an hour, rounding and fleshing out with richness and sweet fruit to the fore. I tend to shy away from a scoring system, and find most predictions regarding ageing potential woefully inaccurate – as far as I am concerned its ready now! I am unsure if this property is named after a racehorse – who famously contested a seminal race with Seabiscuit – or, judging by its Dreadnaught range, is more likely to be named after a battleship – answers on a postcard please.

The Rosso di Montalcino is exactly that, the red wine of Montalcino. Cherries, berries, slightly astringent tannins , lively acidity to balance with a clean and moreish finish.

Lastly Kleos, (in epic poetry meaning fame or renown – Lost in Translation) from the coast of Campania, south of Naples, across the bay from Positano – can I go on holiday now? The wine is made from the Aglianico grape – big, robust chunky with a hint of herbaceousness mixed with obvious depth and class. I liked this wine a lot – I don’t know if this was because I tasted it after the others – but it has charm, presence and more than a smattering of individual sparkle – perhaps its my Kaiser Soze.

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September Whites

02 Monday Sep 2013

Posted by juleslewis in Wine

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Albariño, Marsanne, Portugal, Santa Ynez Valley, Spain, Wine

Its September, the sun is out, and I am still drinking mainly white wines. When being entertained, I am normally handed glasses of; Fizz, Sauvignon Blanc,  un-oaked (or over-oaked) Chardonnay, and over cropped, over priced, Pinot Grigio. As a guest, I often rock up with a couple of bottles that I find interesting and am generally horrified when mein hosts disappear with said bottles and I never see them again! When I bring wine I expect to drink it, and share it. These are a pair of wines with real bling.

The Soalheiro Alvarinho 2010, from Portugal (Spain’s Albarino) is full of citrus fruits of high intensity. It’s not perfumed, as the nose is too creamily complex for that but the aromas do make you want to hastily delve into the glass. The mouthfeel is full and substantial, the flavours follow the nose with hints of peach and almonds. The finish is surprising, lively acidity, beautifully balanced with excellent concentration – scrumdiddlyumtious!

The Qupe Marsanne is a classic. Californian, with a big dollop of true French class. A blend of 75% Marsanne 25% Roussanne, ( principal white varieties of the northern Rhone) organically grown in the heart of the Santa Ynez Valley. The nose is an intense combination of nuts and pears, full and chunky on the palate with an oily richness balanced by classy acidity. It’s a little like a Viognier but without the peachy perfume.

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“COS I love you”

30 Friday Aug 2013

Posted by juleslewis in Wine

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

Denominazione di origine controllata, Frappato, Nero d'Avola, Sicily, Vittoria, Wine

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I love the wines of COS – and this little gem in particular. It hails from the Vittoria region of Sicily and is the only Sicilian DOCG.

COS was formed back in the New Romantic era of 1980 (I now have Duran Duran’s “Union of the Snake” going round in my head) by three old school friends; Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti and Pinuccia Strano, who – after a brief  flirtation with new barriques – soon realized that their distinctive terroir was presenting them with flavours that didn’t benefit from a cloak of new oak. They now use a combination of old barrels and 400 litre clay amphorae, sunk into the ground, to ferment their red and white wines. All are distinctive, but this baby is my favourite.

Cerasuaolo di Vittoria is a blend of two indigenous grape varieties – Nero d’Avola and Frappato –  making a fresh, stylish, and expressive red wine. It’s packed to the gunwales with crunchy, bitter cherry fruit. Has a rustically firm tannic structure, with the zip and zest of the Frappato lifting and enhancing the finish. It is altogether dangerously easy to open more than one bottle!

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B.L.I.C

27 Tuesday Aug 2013

Posted by juleslewis in Wine

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Mass production, Sweetness of wine, Wine

This is a useful acronym to remember when tasting wine. It was passed on to me, many moons ago, by Sabrina Sykes, and stands for: Balance, Length, Intensity and Concentration. If a wine has these component parts – regardless of its stage of development – it will be worth drinking.

Stylistically speaking, I am not a fan of either Calpol or Ribeena – reminders of which I come across in many commercially made or mass produced wines. The combination of residual sugar, jammy overcooked fruit, insufficient acidity together with a big burn of alcohol on the finish, leaves me definitely not wanting more!

Here are a pair of wines with B.L.I.C.

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