Category Archives: Wine

11 o clock tick tock

09 Monday Sep 2013

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If there was ever a wine made for elevenses it’s Riesling. I don’t mean any old Riesling, I mean German Riesling.

If I am talking to wine folk, I apologise for preaching to the converted. If not, and you are new to such a wine, sort yourselves out! This is not the wine of doubtful quality doled out to old ladies at parties, but one of the finest expressions of the grape in the vinous pantheon. It could, without being humbly stated, lay substantial claim to being the world’s greatest white wine.

A combination of incredibly pure, primary fruit aromas (floral, honeyed and racily steely in its youth – morphing to secondary aromas of petrol and plasticine as it ages) married with a richness and complexity extraordinary in a wine of such low alcohol – between 7 and 10% abv – this is a wine of exceptional longevity.

High in extract, it’s residual sugars balanced with naturally high levels of tartaric acid, the examples of the cooler climate Mosel, Saar and Ruwer are perfect wines. If you are slightly afeared of residual sugar then seek out the drier trocken styles.

Epinophy

09 Monday Sep 2013

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When you first meet someone and fall hopelessly and helplessly in love, you are in the throes of a form of mental illness. A potent cocktail of chemicals and neuro-transmitters called ‘monoamines’ dominate your every action during this initial, attraction stage.

The object of your desire seems to hang on your every word, greeting each banal utterance with doe-eyed rapture and a puzzling atrophy of the neck muscles. They clutch you physically – generally by the arm – as if they are already going to lose you. They laugh loudly, and somewhat maniacally, at your hackneyed jokes and phrases – mainly because they have not heard them before, although you have secretly polished them up for millennia.  Worst of all, your new love accompanies you everywhere. Activities, pastimes, hobbies and destinations are no longer your own and the loved one shows a zealots passion for the most absurd elements of your previously, private life.

Thankfully such madness abates during the second, or attachment, stage. The absurd behaviour stops and the loved one realises that you are not so funny, charming, handsome and popular and so takes off the wetsuit and the cricket pads.

It did not take the V.O.R. (my wife, the Voice of Reason) very long to tire of wine speak. Each swirl, sip and florid comment was met with a rolling of the eyes, an audible sigh of boredom and, in extremis, a sharp exit.

Until the Epiphany occurred, and it came with a great big glass of Pinot Noir. This was no ordinary Pinot, however, but a bottle of Domaine Dujac, Clos De La Roche,1990.

Now I make no bones about Pinot being female friendly, soft, lush, sensuous and elegant with a firm tannic streak, a smattering of earthy minerality and a nervy acidic backbone – a skittish thoroughbred amongst wines. The VOR took to it like a duck to water, enthusing about the nose, how the wine evolved in the glass, fruit intensity, tannins and finish were all commented upon (my pupils were dilating and what was happening to my neck), before she finally said “After all that banging on about wine, I suddenly know what you mean”.

The attraction stage had returned, she understood me again, and once more we spoke with one voice – only now I need a bigger wallet!

Sharpener

06 Friday Sep 2013

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A “Sharpener” is a drink designed to alleviate dullness, put an end to ennui and torpor and lift ones spirits in preparation for the evening’s festivities.

As the weekend approaches, here is a tipple to stimulate the appetite, commonly referred to as an aperitif.

This is Dolin; a Vermouth made near Chambéry in the Savoie region of eastern France.  It’s a blend of alpine herbs and spices, although like all good drinkywinks, the exact recipe is a closely guarded secret. Light, lively and refreshing on the palate – a little less viscous than Noilly Prat – it is generally accompanied by tonic, lemonade or mineral water.  Personally I prefer it on the rocks, or of your spirits really require a kick start, mix it with Campari for a variation on the “bicyclette”

£9.89 from larger branches of Waitrose.

Skadoosh!

03 Tuesday Sep 2013

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I have been shopping, those with eagle eye vision will observe the Harvey Nichols bag in the background. Now, Harvey Nicks is not just a shop for fashionistas, D to Z list celebs, footballers their wives and wanabees  – it has a serious wine department. Offering up not only the best Vermouth on the market Carpano’s  Antico Formula, but some other gems to boot. I had a serious “flow” moment  there (“Lost in the supermarket” The Clash, London Calling, 1979) and lost an hour of my day. Admittedly its a better line up than the “Usual Suspects” but which one is my Kaiser Soze? I believe the Turkish definition of “Soze” is to talk too much – so I shall keep it brief!

Adi Badenhorst’s wines are wicked! Biodynamic, organic, resolutely traditional, out there and uncompromising – you gotta love em!  This is from his second tier range,  “Secateurs Chenin Blanc” – I am ever an advocate (there is no connection) – and it delivers. Classic dumb-ish, wet wooley, secondary fermentation nose, a big splash of melon and citrus fruit on the follow through, balanced with seriously zippy, acidic zing! Check out his full range – you will not be disappointed.

The Domaine Drouhin Oregon Chardie (Willamette Valley) is Burgundian in character, a touch Chablisien, with bright, slightly tart, melony fruit, a lush creamy malolacticness (these malapropic descriptors are entirely my own) topped off with a judicious splash of classy French oak.

Pittacum is a red from Bierzo – a remote region in Galicia S.W.Spain. Considered by many to be the next big thing in Spanish winemaking, this is fashioned from the Mencia grape. Rarely grown anywhere else, Mencia delivers wines of great complexity, but at a relatively low alcohol level – have I mentioned this before? Organic, hand-harvested and the product of 75 year-old vines, it has a short maturation of around 4 months in American oak. Fleshy, well rounded with scents of blackcurrants and liquorice it is warmly concentrated with a slightly sweetish finish.

You should all know Paul Draper’s wines – if not, get a grip! This is Geyserville, a rustic, immensely characterful Zin – right up there with only the best examples. Damsons, plums, chocolate, lashings of creamy vanilla oakiness with huge concentration and an immense finish.

Man O War Syrah, from New Zealand’s Waiheke Island comes in at a whopping 14% abv, Despite such robustness, it remains extremely fresh, although meaty, with some white pepper and clove notes on the nose. It opens up and softens after an hour, rounding and fleshing out with richness and sweet fruit to the fore. I tend to shy away from a scoring system, and find most predictions regarding ageing potential woefully inaccurate – as far as I am concerned its ready now! I am unsure if this property is named after a racehorse – who famously contested a seminal race with Seabiscuit – or, judging by its Dreadnaught range, is more likely to be named after a battleship – answers on a postcard please.

The Rosso di Montalcino is exactly that, the red wine of Montalcino. Cherries, berries, slightly astringent tannins , lively acidity to balance with a clean and moreish finish.

Lastly Kleos, (in epic poetry meaning fame or renown – Lost in Translation) from the coast of Campania, south of Naples, across the bay from Positano – can I go on holiday now? The wine is made from the Aglianico grape – big, robust chunky with a hint of herbaceousness mixed with obvious depth and class. I liked this wine a lot – I don’t know if this was because I tasted it after the others – but it has charm, presence and more than a smattering of individual sparkle – perhaps its my Kaiser Soze.

Subtly Sublime

03 Tuesday Sep 2013

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Sometimes a few wines cross your path that demand attention. This can manifest itself in many different ways. They can be dreadful (these will be absent from this blog so as to avoid hurt feelings ref “The Conchords“). They may be prohibitively expensive. They may be massively monstrous, or alternatively, they may be subtly sublime. I enjoy alliteration and use it often in homage to my childhood English master who said ” Lewis! This essay is a mass of mixed metaphors”. To which I facetiously replied “Is that not alliteration sir”. The wry smile on his face as he said “Get out boy” stays with me today. I am digressing , these two wines come under the heading subtly sublime.

I seem to be tasting (drinking) a lot of Italian wines at present – obviously not right now as its the morning! I find them to be the perfect wines for autumn – subtle, medium bodied with enough tannic grip and vibrant acidity to compliment the kind of food suited to summer’s end.

The red is a Nebbiolo from G.D. Vajra in the Langhe. It’s a kind of “Baby Barolo” coming from younger vines, but packed with the classic violet and red berry aromas associated with the grape variety. Aldo Vajra is a traditionalist, and a champion of old-styley winemaking (His Barolos spend three and a half years in barrel prior to bottling). Vajra’s wines are less powerful than those from Serralunga, but what they lack in oomph they more than make up for in elegance. This is almost Burgundian in style with an intense and pure fruit character redolent of it’s origin. Tannins are ripe – but necessarily grippy, and the balance is sublime. If your funds cannot stretch to Barolo then this is the badger!

The sticky is from the Maremma, and, if tasted blind, could easily be mistaken for a Barsac. It’s intentionally made by Elizabetta Gepetti as an homage to the wines of Sauternes (my blind note said Barsac). A blend of Traminer, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grown in Scanscano, this is lush, ripe, jam packed with peaches and enlivened throughout with a racy, almost citrusy acidity together with a smidgeon of minerality for added complexity. Again, if your wallet is too skinny for Sauternes you can always get two half bottles of this – give it a blast .

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September Whites

02 Monday Sep 2013

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Its September, the sun is out, and I am still drinking mainly white wines. When being entertained, I am normally handed glasses of; Fizz, Sauvignon Blanc,  un-oaked (or over-oaked) Chardonnay, and over cropped, over priced, Pinot Grigio. As a guest, I often rock up with a couple of bottles that I find interesting and am generally horrified when mein hosts disappear with said bottles and I never see them again! When I bring wine I expect to drink it, and share it. These are a pair of wines with real bling.

The Soalheiro Alvarinho 2010, from Portugal (Spain’s Albarino) is full of citrus fruits of high intensity. It’s not perfumed, as the nose is too creamily complex for that but the aromas do make you want to hastily delve into the glass. The mouthfeel is full and substantial, the flavours follow the nose with hints of peach and almonds. The finish is surprising, lively acidity, beautifully balanced with excellent concentration – scrumdiddlyumtious!

The Qupe Marsanne is a classic. Californian, with a big dollop of true French class. A blend of 75% Marsanne 25% Roussanne, ( principal white varieties of the northern Rhone) organically grown in the heart of the Santa Ynez Valley. The nose is an intense combination of nuts and pears, full and chunky on the palate with an oily richness balanced by classy acidity. It’s a little like a Viognier but without the peachy perfume.

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“COS I love you”

30 Friday Aug 2013

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I love the wines of COS – and this little gem in particular. It hails from the Vittoria region of Sicily and is the only Sicilian DOCG.

COS was formed back in the New Romantic era of 1980 (I now have Duran Duran’s “Union of the Snake” going round in my head) by three old school friends; Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti and Pinuccia Strano, who – after a brief  flirtation with new barriques – soon realized that their distinctive terroir was presenting them with flavours that didn’t benefit from a cloak of new oak. They now use a combination of old barrels and 400 litre clay amphorae, sunk into the ground, to ferment their red and white wines. All are distinctive, but this baby is my favourite.

Cerasuaolo di Vittoria is a blend of two indigenous grape varieties – Nero d’Avola and Frappato –  making a fresh, stylish, and expressive red wine. It’s packed to the gunwales with crunchy, bitter cherry fruit. Has a rustically firm tannic structure, with the zip and zest of the Frappato lifting and enhancing the finish. It is altogether dangerously easy to open more than one bottle!

B.L.I.C

27 Tuesday Aug 2013

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This is a useful acronym to remember when tasting wine. It was passed on to me, many moons ago, by Sabrina Sykes, and stands for: Balance, Length, Intensity and Concentration. If a wine has these component parts – regardless of its stage of development – it will be worth drinking.

Stylistically speaking, I am not a fan of either Calpol or Ribeena – reminders of which I come across in many commercially made or mass produced wines. The combination of residual sugar, jammy overcooked fruit, insufficient acidity together with a big burn of alcohol on the finish, leaves me definitely not wanting more!

Here are a pair of wines with B.L.I.C.

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“Something for the weekend”

21 Wednesday Aug 2013

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Four whites for the Bank Holiday that won’t break the bank. All at different, user friendly, price points – delivering a world of difference from the stuff your friends normally pour. Two Gruner Veltliners from Austria – one from the Wachau (where the best examples originate) – Domaine Wachau, 2012, 13% abv ( £10.44 from Waitrose) and Salomon Groovy, 2011, 12.5 abv, (£9.75 from Oddbins). Both are packed with apricot fruit of good intensity, full of substance on the mid-palate and balanced with a zippy citric acidity on the finish.

The Vinho Verde, Quinta De Azaveda 2012, (£7.83, Waitrose) – is a grapey little Portuguese gem, packed with lime zest, firm, crunchy appley fruit, with great balancing acidity and at a mere 11% abv you can “drink on through” – always a good option if you are spending the weekend with family or friends!

Finally the Moncaro Verdicchio Classico, 2012, 12.5% abv,  is one my staples. Citrus fruits with an almondy nuttiness and vibrant acidity comes in at a friendly £5.85 from Waitrose.

Excuse the quality of the photographs, but these are live selections – as you can see from my flip flop in the Verdicchio shot!

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“P” is for Pineau

19 Monday Aug 2013

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I have often wandered the high streets prior to “drink o clock” (that’s 6pm for the uninitiated), looking for good examples – or any examples – of Pineau des Charantes. So, imagine my unbridled joy at spending the summer in the Charente Maritime surrounded by the stuff! The example shown – complete with ants – is an artisan liqueur of the standard pale gold colour, although both rose’ and red varieties are increasingly common. Pineau is made by blending grape must to Cognac eau de vie, thereby arresting the fermentation by killing the live yeasts – a process known as mutage. The resulting assemblage is aged for a minimum of twelve months in cask and traditionally  released in the July following the harvest. Pineau is normally served as an aperitif, chilled from the fridge or in emergencies poured over ice. Alternatively, older varieties or Vieux Pineau – which can spend up to 5 years in cask – may be enjoyed as a digestif for those who are averse to the thick head of Cognac. A dash of it may also be blended with sparkling wine as a pousse rapier!

Anyway this leads me neatly into a story concerning regionality. Invited to friends for an early evening drink, I was surprised to be offered Picpoul de Pinet. Don’t get me wrong, I am, as ever, a fan of Picpoul but we were not in the Languedoc we were on the Ile de Re! When in Rome etc., enjoy the wines of the region you are in, share them with others and urge them to do the same. Not only does it make good financial sense (local wines are cheaper and help the regional economy)  but they are designed to accompany the cuisine of the region. They also do not taste quite the same in other regions or countries –  if you doubt me, try drinking pastis outside La belle France.IMG_1778