I have been guilty recently of eschewing white wines in favour of autumnal reds, but, would you believe it, along comes a burst of late, lukewarm sunshine and I backtrack. I have to tell you about this delectable little white, its from Spain (please don’t think that all Spanish whites taste like lemon tea aged in oak) and is made from a grape called Treixadura – the dominant vine in Spain’s Ribeiro region.
Hand picked, 100% Treixadura, cold soaked for 8 hours, then cool fermented in stainless steel for around two weeks. The grape is naturally low in acidity, so does not undergo a malolactic fermentation.
It’s forward on the nose, with apricot and citrus notes backed up with a rich, velvety, buttery character. On the palate it is full-bodied, creamy – without vanilla overtones, and shows substantial intensity and concentration. It lacks the nervy acidity of Godello (another great Spanish white grape) but has an underlying minerality which, to my mind at least, makes it more interesting. Finishing full and long, this is a great reflection of modern Spanish winemaking. Ready to drink now – although it may be interesting to check it out in another year – it should come in at between ten and twelve English pounds and is available from Enotria.